1. Academic Validation
  2. In vivo and in vitro assessment of UVA protection by sunscreen formulations containing either butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or microfine ZnO

In vivo and in vitro assessment of UVA protection by sunscreen formulations containing either butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, or microfine ZnO

  • Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002 Jun;24(3):170-85. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00137.x.
B Herzog 1 S Mongiat C Deshayes M Neuhaus K Sommer A Mantler
Affiliations

Affiliation

  • 1 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc., 79630 Grenzach-Wyhlen, Germany.
Abstract

The UVA-attenuating properties of the three UVA filters butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (BMDBM), methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), and microfine zinc oxide (ZnO), are compared. For this purpose persistent pigment darkening (PPD) as an in vivo method as well as different in vitro approaches like the UVA/UVB ratio, the critical wavelength, and the Australian standard have been used. For the case of the UVA/UVB ratio and the critical wavelength the behaviour was also assessed after irradiation with 10 minimal erythemal doses (MED). Sunscreen formulations were manufactured containing either one of these UVA filters or combinations of one UVA filter and a constant amount of UVB filter. The concentration of the respective UVA filter was varied. BMDBM was dissolved in the oil phase of the formulations. MBBT, which is produced as particulate organic UVA-filter dispersion with average particle size smaller than 200 nm, was added to the aqueous phase. The microfine ZnO was incorporated into the oil phase. If no additional UVB filters were present, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength stayed almost constant, independent of UVA-filter content. With constant levels of additional UVB filters these parameters increased with UVA-filter concentration. In contrast to the behaviour of the UVA/UVB ratio, which appeared to be a sensitive measure for the UVA protection in relation to UVB protection in almost the whole ranges of UVA-filter concentrations, the critical wavelength approached saturation already at low UVA-filter levels. The UVA-protection factors (UVA-PF) obtained from the in vivo studies increased with the concentration of the UVA filter in the formulations. Formulations, which showed UVA-PFs > or = 4 in most cases met also the conditions of the Australian Standard. An irradiation dose of 2.5 kJ m(-2) (10 MED) induced significant decreases of UVA/UVB ratio or critical wavelength only with some BMDBM formulations, indicating a loss of UVA protection in those cases.

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